Battlefield Tourist

6:00 am. I always get up at 6:00 am. I don't have a watch, I don't have a cell phone, I don't have an alarm clock, but everyday, I wake at 6:00 am. Usually I get up and get online and catch up on the world. If I'm lucky, Heidi finds a few minutes to chat with me, but usually I'm hanging out in nfl.com or something.
Afterall, I need a break from my crew sometime. They often act like kids and need to be treated with kid gloves at times. The communication issue continues to cause misunderstandings, but overall it gets worked out. It's just sometimes, starting at 6:00 am every morning, I need some time. Once I get the day planned and the news read, I kick out a hundred pushups in five sets, drink some green tea and head off to some press conference. Today, though, it's a step closer to Kandahar as we take off for Bagram Air Field.
Last night, I threw down half and we had a "chicken party". Very simple: Rugs and blankets on the front lawn where you sit with your shoes off while Qurbon serves us freshly killed and cooked chicken. Best eating time in Afghanistan and we try to have them on special occasions so we can invite friends. Of course, I have none, so I was surrounded by Turks. Pleasantly, some spoke english and the night was fine. I ended up hitting the sack in the middle of the Besktas match (Turkish football) in a somber mood.
It was a great night of sleep and a good day off to cap off a long week. Three days straight I spent at KMTC (Kabul Military Training Center). The first day I got there, I was going to take some live fire video of the recruits training when all of a sudden, my PAO's came up and said to each other, "Should we tell him." Didn't sound good for sure. Turns out that the plans may be changing for the day. Standing to the right are around 800 new soldiers in the Afghan National Army. Commmonly, up to 20% (admitted, but probably more) take off on an unofficial leave so they can get their money to their famalies. Being so close to election time, the Minister of Defense decides not to pay these guys so they can't leave. Best part is, he wants the Americans to tell the soldiers what's going on. The Americans don't agree with that assessement, but do agree to send a Colonel to co-address the men.
As the soldiers are being marched in for a "suprise announcement" coalition troops from the US, Romania and Afghanistan are getting ready for a riot. Knowing what's going on, I feel a bit nervous. Actually one of the more nervous times I have felt in Afghanistan. The whole time I am documenting it as if there will be a riot and I want to get the full story. Unfortunately, I am having a rookie day and am conserving the only two partially charged batteries in my bag. Like I need that worry.
So there I sit on the steps listening and watching TIME's Bob Nickelsberg take pictures, ocassionally getting my own shots. To my lefty 5 meters, is 800 ANA, many of whom I expect to riot at any minute. To my right are eight guys that are giving the bad news. Not having a translator, it was kind of like walkingin a minefield or playing with a "Jack in the Box", I had no idea when the punchline was coming.
Forty minutes later, after one soldier fainted, the punchline never came. A pep talk about God and country and how the army will take care of you never produced the truth: That they weren't getting paid and that they were being deployed in two days to Kandahar.

The next day there were some small protests and more than 200 had disapeared into the night. I came back to do more live fire, which turned out to be very cool. I got to take some shots of mortar and machine gun practice. Also got to spend a clip of 5.56 with an M-4 equiped with "redsight" (looking through the scope you see a red dot. That is where the bullet hits.).
So overall, I was getting some good "boot camp" video for my documentary, plus following a potentially explosive situation that I was now capturing in chapters. The next day would be the true test, when they try putting these guys on the bus for Kandahar.

The following day, Ahmet had taken the car key with him as he went to Ghazni, leaving us to figure out a way to get it back. He hadn't gotten too far out of town before he realized it, so the problem was as dire as it could have been. At this point, though, I was late and it was the end of the story I'd been shooting for three days. A quiick call to Captain Powell informed me that there was some minor problems, but no violence. He also said the busses were leaving at 1030. It was now 0930 and I was 15 miles away.
I describe driving in Kabul as a two way go-cart track with people, bikes and herds of goats on it. The only rule is to look out for yourself. Usually this is a bad thing, but being a former new photographer, it was easy. A little harrowing, but easy. On the way I passed troops from Norway, Italy, Germany, Finland and Spain. Troops seem to be everywhere. Hope that'ss a good thing.
I make it to KMTC and by now am recognizable enough to get very little scrutiny, and I make my way inside to the parade grounds where, to my surprise, I see hundreds of men getting ready to deploy. At the front iis a guy with a loudspeker, sounds like he's telling jokes through a song. The men, most sitting, are laughing and in good spirits. Every few minutes
a group would peel off, run to their large, bulky, heavy bags and headed off toward a "jingle truck" where they would throw their stuff on top the heap. They were then loaded up on tour buses, and sent to Kandahr.
Crazy, men who risk everything for $70 a month, willfully, even cheerfully toward the fight without being paid... just astounds me. Reminds me of what I imagine our minutemen were like.

Back to this morning... chatted with Heidi, answered a couple of emails and just reflected about those things that are important. Been doing that a lot lately. Guess this country can make you think. I figure we'll make it to Bagram tonight and it will take 1-3 days to get to Kandahar, depending on the flights. Hopefully, we'll be up and running by Monday.

Well, it's almost time to take off for Kandahar. Trips like this one turn into life chapters. A time where you spend more time than you need with the same people in the middle of a world changing event. Can't believe we'll be doing it from the home of the Taliban.
Over the past two days we've been pretty busy, turning out eight stories from four locations including Herat in the far west. In the middle of all that we were awaken at 0100 by the only female presidential candidate in the race, who had a live shot with Al Aribya that no one told us about until she showed up. Other than that, today is a rest and reflect day. One of those days you sit back with a beer and think about everything important.
I don't have a lot of time to write, even though I have a few very interesting days to catch up on. Regardless, below is more correspondence with my military contact has we hammer out the final details of this very big production.

======================================================

Mike,

  Just wondering how things are going.  We are having problems getting our money wired in so we may be a day behind or so. Also, as we hope, you were able to get us a tent.  Please understand that I have two guys that will be doing live shots deep into the night.  Because of that and the amount of equipment we're bringing, we are going to need a seperate space away from the journos coming and going as they will.  Also need to verify if the internet line is still possible. Let me know any updates and we'll see you soon.

Dave

======================================================

David

Things are going really smooth. We are setting up two different media centers. One near the stadium for the main press pool, and a small one at the stadium for you. Everyone will be using the stadium if they need to, but mainly it is just for your satellite team. All the players are on board with embeds, JEMB UNAMA ANA, ANP etc.... We are expecting a smooth program.
A couple of things... One, when are you arriving, secondly, who are the press agencies that indicated to you they would be coming. I really need to bounce that list off what I am getting from Kabul CPIC.

Later,
Mike

======================================================

Mike,

  We will be going via Bagram for security reasons.  We will be at the front gate around 4:30.  I would truly appreciate it if you dropped the Bagram PAD a note to give them a heads up.  We will also need to be manifested for three, so whatever information they need, please have them get in touch.  This coming two weeks is going to be quite interesting.  Hope everything goes well.

Dave

=======================================================

David
If you are flying, how are you getting your satellite system down? Will the fact that you're flying mean any additional support requirement? Fuel??? Etc... What type of juice does this thing run off of???

Mike

=======================================================

Mike,

The satellite system we are bring is a portable "fly away" system and is transported manually.  The system breaks down into and boxes up into four hard shell boxes.   As long as we have electricity, we do not need to bring generator. Really the only pain in the ass will be getting there and back because it's more than the normal amount of equipment for me, but far less than Geraldo (and this is a hell of a lot more important!).

Dave

ps - The truck is staying in Kabul.
pss - What is your list of interested parties?

========================================================

Fox 4
Reuters 2
NBC 2
LA Times 2
Sky News 2
Nightline 2
ABC 3(Gretchen Peters)
BBC 4
ABC Nightline 3

These are all that have confirmed through the Kabul CPIC. How many of these will want to use you system???? I have no idea.

MRM

There's so much that goes on here that I often forget stories that are important for me to write down and possibly interesting for you to read.

Cool notes:

1. Make sure you pick up the November issue of Soldier of Fortune. Yo will get a first hand account of what the U.S. Marines were up to as they chased Anti Coalition Militants (ACM) around central Oruzgan. As most of you know, I can get a little long winded, so I'm not sure how much of it Col. Brown edited out. I also sent him a ton of pictures that are yet to be posted on the site, so I'm excited to see which ones made the cut.

2. While I was hanging out with some ETTs (Embedded Training Teams) in Herat a few weeks ago, I noticed a World War I helmet sitting on a shelf. It looked great, other than the dirt and rust on it. Most the dirt came off when I started to drool on it.
Anyway, turns out the guys that were there before from Vermont left it and it really didn't belong to anyone. The following day after I got back from doing my thing, the helmet was sitting on my pack.
Things got better when a passing ETT says, "There's a better on in one of the trucks. A few hours later, I found the truck, and sure enough, there was a World War II German helmet. This one is in excellent condition and appears to have its original paint. One drawback is that someone painted a 1 inch thick red stripe around the helmet.
It's hard to explain, but anyone that knew me growing up would attest to the fact that I was a huge WWII buff (still am). In particular, I had this obsession with the German Army. Even more particular, I was obsessed with their helmet. I have always wanted one of these helmets. It was just one of those things I never acquired. That is until this one day in September when I score one from both World Wars at the same time. Unbelievable. A gigantic shout out to the ETT's of 4/2 Kandak & 5/3 Kandak, all part of the 76th Indiana Infantry for making me so at home on such short notice.

Once again we're into one of those "ruts" if you will. For me, a "rut" is when I'm not back out in the field quickly. That's a rut. No matter actually. Things in Kabul are on the edge and Istanbul isn't too keen on me leaving town while we're under such a pivotal time.
My last trip out ended a bit differently than any other. Nothing bad, just different. The morning after I went to the Iranian border, I had managed to hook up with a couple of "Full Bird" Colonels who were going to take off to Kabul in the morning.
They felt they had room, so invited me to join them. Soon after, two ETT's got wind of the flight and they needed to get to Kabul too. Our small group was getting bigger and I had no idea what type of plane we had. I assumed all would be ok.
At the airport, the question was finally answered when a little bity jet with "United States of America" on the side showed up. I instantly knew I was not getting outta here this way. The pilot was kind, looked around and decided four was the maximum. We were seven. Plan B.
For $60 I could get a flight on Ariana, the state carrier. So I make my way through the building (which looks like something out of a central american prison without bars) and try to sign my way through getting a plane ticket. Turns out the manager knew English and once we were introduced, informed me the current plane was full. Fortunately, there was another flight an hour later that I would have no trouble making it on.
In the meantime, I tried to write in my journal, but the minute I opened my laptop, I became the central attraction. It was so weird that I had to stop before I started and put it away. Literally, a dozen people just staring at my screen while I typed.
It turned out to be for the best anyway, because I met a young Afghan refugee named Ali, who was quite interesting. He hadn't been to Kabul, his birthplace, for more than 20 years. Being that he was just 23, this was a special day for him.
While we waited for the plane, he and I spoke with a group around us. Ali acting as translator/participant, we talked about politics and war mainly. Interesting conversation. Seems we all have a lot more in common than one can believe, considering the variation in backgrounds. The definite gist that came out of this conversation was that everyone was tired of war.
By 7:00, I was back in Kabul and I came home a bit grumpy. Of course I came as fast as I could and got home only to find out that after a week in Herat, I was going to have to file from an internet cafe because the internet was down for lack of payment.
There was also a pattern starting to appear with the crew that indicated I was being taken advantage of (by the crew) while I was out of town. That feeling is clear a week later.
The past week has been a bit trying. The personnel issues are still being tamed from a period that had no bureau chief for a long time. Old habits are tough to break, and even more difficult to control being the only American and not having a common language with the entire crew.
There's also been some difficulty with the editor in Istanbul. He doesn't know english either, so there's been some communication problems. More so though, is a lack of understanding in Istanbul about what is going on in Afghanistan. After trying for two months to start deciding on election coverage, a new editor has all of a sudden come down with both feet and has caused a major ripple in the office.
A lot of the problem is, since the editor doesn't speak english, he tends to call my crew and issue orders directly without any consolation whatsoever. This is clearly something that doesn't work on my ship.

Example: Since Abdullah is a student, I was forced to "demote" him indefinitely to "house boy" and promote "house boy". The problem is that Abdullah is a student and is available only a few hours a day. It was killing us. So I made a tough decision that was approved by the boss. Two days later, this editor is calling Abdullah telling him to continue as a reporter and forget what I instructed him to do.
Now that isn't a communication gap, is it?

Regardless, progress has been made and Abdullah's demotion lasted two days. As I explained to him, it was his "wake up" call (there were performance issues as well).
So the past week has been working on the election coverage. I pitched that we go live from Kandahar and Kabul. Kandahar is the birthplace of the Taliban, we would have the only SNG there and overall should be a good choice for money making, something all bosses like.
Over the past two days, it's all started falling into place. Here's some correspondence between me and the U.S. Army.

Mike,

  Today I have received the go-ahead to pursue election coverage live from Kandahar stadium.  We have a number of clients lined up and interested in the service.

Please reply.

Thanks,
Dave Tate, Bureau Chief
IHA Kabul
========================================================
David

You sir are the bomb.
What kind of details about the operation can you tell me? What will you need
in support? Whatever it is, just ask....
MRM
=======================================================
Mike,

  I still have to nail down dates, but we are looking getting there by )Oct 1st to set up and stay 2 days after (or so).  You will obviously want to figure out tent accommodations for journalists and things like that.
  For us, we will need to take the fly away, which means we will need air transport and ground transport once in Kandahar.  Once at the stadium, we will be stationary.
  Ideally, we will need a platform for live shots (up to three at a time), so a media area will be neccesary.  It would be helpful if we had at least one internet line.
  Personally, I hope to be on QRF to get any breaking news.  I'll be in touch with more ideas, so please start assembling a plan for us to bounce around.  You should plan for up to 30 journos.

Call me at 070-278-434

Dave
========================================================
This we can do.
========================================================
Mike,

  I have no clue what other organazations are doing for accommodations, so let me rephrase our support needs.
  IHA would like a work tent for three with power and an internet line, three cots, a couple of boxes of MRE's and a place to do live shots from.  We will be on site 24-hours except myself, who will be coming and going as opportunity presents itself.
  We will also need air transport from Bagram and land transport once in Kandahar.  

Tentative dates are Oct 1st - Oct 11th.

Thanks,

Dave
========================================================
David

Maj. Flynn, 3-7 Operations officer, has asked if I could find one journalist
to "Sit in my back pocket for the duration of the election." If there was
ever a chance to get in on the ground floor, this is it. Do you want to do
that? This would allow you to set up in the Kandahar Operations TOC at the
stadium? You would also be on hand to hear and know anything that goes on,
as well as be available for responding units. I believe that this TOC will
have ANA, ANP, ASF as well as coalition forces.
MRM
========================================================
Mike,

I'm in on that. Exclusive = good.

Dave
========================================================

So how it stands, the Army will be securing a large area around the stadium where the ballots will be counted. We will run our uplink from a "media rodeo" outside the stadium, using it as our background. From this area, the military, Afghan government and the U.N. will run camera crews out to various locations that are connected to the elections: Vote casting, vote counting, coalition security, Afghan National Army, etc... The goal is to get as much video of different things out as possible. At the end of the trip will be my crew, eagerly waiting to accommodate your feed and live shot. Should be a very interesting 10 days.

A lot of people drop me notes asking about my video. Below is a partial list of the stories I've done here this year. For all my shooter friends: Rarely do I use a tripod. Where I go, and what I do - alone, severly limits that. In fact, I gave up my tripod in June . Beyond Afghanistan, however, my tripod goes everywhere!!
All you do is go to www.iha.com.tr and punch in the story number you want to see. Enjoy!!

PS - I do not take credit for the non-english speaking editors that correct my text!!

Herat:  US army moves into Western Afghanistan
22 September 2004
15:04
More than 500 regular U.S. Army forces have indefinitely moved to Western Afghanistan..... 
Story ID : 20339

Herat:  Herat calm as Khan's militia begins demobilize
19 September 2004
15:20
The western Afghan city of Herat remains quiet, a full week after riots left at least 7 dead and more than 50 injured or wounded..... 
Story ID : 20263   

Herat:  Exclusive- Iran moves tanks toward border with Afghanistan
18 September 2004
14:49
Afghan National soldiers, Afghan National Police and their American advisors
visited the main border crossing with Iran, prompting the Iranian government to move tanks and artillery closer to the bo.. 
Story ID : 20233

Herat:  EXCLUSIVE - Herat Calm, But On Edge As Khan Threatens War
17 September 2004
18:30
Resistance of Ismail Khan has been clouding first election in the Afghanistan, after the Herat's crisis... 
Story ID : 20218
 Story
 Preview
00:03:53:00

Kandahar:  Exclusive - Video of terrorist training camp
11 September 2004
10:30
The video is what "Tarnack Farms" look like now, three years after the 9-11 attacks. Most experts believe the plan and much of the training for the attack was done at this facility..... 
Story ID : 20013

Kabul:  Commemorative ceremony for September 11 in Kabul
11 September 2004
17:20
A commemorative ceremony for September 11 attacks is held in the capital of Afghanistan at US base Saturday. Hundreds of soldiers stand in silence in order to show their respect... 
Story ID : 20032

Kandahar:  Economic help coming to troubled south Afghanistan
10 September 2004
15:46
For the first time since the US-led coalition came to Afghanistan, the United States military is taking on a major construction project that will enhance thousands of Afghans for years to come..... 

Story ID : 19996 Kabul:  News Burst /rocket attacks in Kabul, at least four wounded
9 September 2004
20:21
Rocket attacks in Kabul, capital city of Afghanistan late Thursday, leaving at least 4 wounded... 
Story ID : 19977

Kabul:  Rocket attacks in Kabul, two wounded, including a woman and an 11-year
9 September 2004
22:08
Rocket attacks in Kabul, capital city of Afghanistan late Thursday, leaving 2 wounded, including a woman and an 11-year old child... 
Story ID : 19979

Kabul:  Spanish battalion arrives in Afghanistan.
8 September 2004
23:28
More than 400 Spanish brigade has arrived in Mazar-e Sharif on Wednesday, to support ISAF in the period of first election in Afghanistan... 
Story ID : 19947

Kabul:  Kabul in high spirits as Masoud is remembered
8 September 2004
Afghanistan kicked off an official three day holiday Wednesday in remembrance of slaying of the Ahmad Shah Masoud, who was killed three years ago on September 9th. Thousands gathered at Kabul's Olymp.. 
Story ID : 19934   

Kabul:  French Defence Minister visits Afghanistan
2 September 2004
The French Minister of Defence, Mme Michele Alliot-Marie, arrives in Kabul Thursday to visit French troops serving as part of ISAF as well as local dignitaries..... 
Story ID : 19750

Kabul:  Kabul 100% heavy weapons free
1 September 2004
Just over a month before Afghanistan's historic elections, the International Security and Assistance Force declared the Kabul was free of heavy weapons, which include tanks and
other crew-served we.. 
Story ID : 19722

Herat:  Exclusive - Additional security deployed in Herat
31 August 2004
13:06
In exclusive pictures from Herat, Afghanistan, a government spokesman says new forces are being deployed in the region in an attempt to avert new violence in the area in the run-up to October's presi.. 
Story ID : 19693

Kabul:  A bomb rips through Kabul, killing at least 7, two Americans
29 August 2004
20:11
A powerful explosion ripped through a near eastside residential neighborhood in Afghan capital of Kabul on Sunday, killing at least seven and injuring at least 24. Confirmed killed by the Afghan gove.. 
Story ID : 19661
  
Kabul:  Saudi connection to Afghan child trafficking
6 July 2004
11:10
Evidence is growing of a link between child kidnapping and trafficking in Afghanistan and Saudi Arabia. With a decree on Sunday, threatening the death penalty for kidnappers, IHA investigates..... 
Story ID : 17692
  
Kabul:  Three election workers missing in Afghanistan
7 August 2004
15:55
Three election workers travelling in a four car convoy in Ghazni are missing following an ambush..... 
Story ID : 18783

Herat:  Afghan Army contains fighting in western Afghanistan
16 August 2004
16:22
Since Sunday, more than 1,000 Afghan National soldiers and their American trainers have been flooding into this former Soviet airbase that just two days ago, was the scene of fierce inter-factional f.. 
Story ID : 19121

Herat:  Exclusive - Heavy fighting erupts in Western Afghanistan
14 August 2004
20:31
Fighting erupted early Saturday morning in the western Afghan Province of Herat when three former-commanders under Provincial Governor Ismail Khan attacked his private forces from three directions..... 
Story ID : 19051

Khowst:  US Marines on pre-election offensive
27 August 2004
12:36
Nearly 250 Marines supported by helicopter gunships begin a series of aggressive operations designed to root out anti-coalition militants in the rugged mountains on the Afghan border with Pakistan's .. 
Story ID : 19575

Khowst:  US Marines continue humanitarian work in troubled Afghan province
28 August 2004
12:31
US Marines are working to continue where the Army left off more than a month ago. Marines from 3rd Battalion, Sixth Marines and elements of the Army's 25th Infantry Division have taken over responsi.. 
Story ID : 19604

Wednesday September 15, 2004

Everything in Herat remains quiet. The ETT's I'm with are making all the changes they need to make to counter the problems that came out of the riots. Logistically, the job is getting bigger and bigger. By now more than 500 Americans are involved as well as more than 2,500 ANA and more than 500 ANP.
Even with all the excitement, the Commanding Afghan general isn't satisfied. He wants to take 200 ANA & ANP to Islam Qala, the main border crossing with Iran. It's also the place where Ismail Kahn got much of his revenue. Now the ANA wants to pay a visit and show the folks that run it that the government is taking over.
Considering the checkpoint is run by Ismail Kahn's cousin, but word is that the Iranians won't be happy either. In fact, the Americans have orders to stay 10km away from the border so not to cause problems.
Off the bat the operation ran into trouble. The reasons aren't clear, but early on, it looked like we wouldn't be going. So I hooked up with some ETT's heading to the riot areas where ANA troops were now keeping the peace.
First place we stopped was the UNAMA building. I took pictures of the ANA guarding the site, then made my way inside for shots of the cleanup. We didn't stay to long before heading to the PRT for some water supplies and finally back to HQ.
By now, the troops were forming in a long caravan of pickup trucks filled to the gill. These little Ford Rangers were holding 6-10 men per pickup bed. Should be comfortable for the two-hour trip.
So here we waited, in the same staging area that I saw Ismail Kahn directing his troops the morning he was attacked August 13th. This time we were waiting to go to the Iranian border. Earlier I had heard the delay was political and the decision was at "presidential level". I also heard that the Iranians, fearing an attack, had moved tanks and artillery to the border.
Finally we were given permission to go, and we all snaked out into Herat and toward Iran. Thinking the Americans would be stopped at 10kms out, got permission to go with the General, with whom I'm starting a pretty good relationship with.
The ride is as boring as two-hours in the desert can be, when we finally come to Islam Qala. Once there, the general is given a good military welcome and we're all invited up to a meeting room where talks and carboose (melon) awaits.
In the room, some of the local border guards didn't look happy. Of course, most of them were looking at a big cut in their cut of the taxes generated here. Regardless, the general made it clear that change was coming and that they should all play ball
if they wanted to play ball at all.
After the meeting, I quickly headed off toward the Iranian side for some video, which I was able to get with no problem. Actually, I was quite surprised at how easy it appeared to be to get over. Truck checks amounted to opening the trailer door for a quick peek. There wasn't a whole lot of in depth checking on personal cars either. Very easy to see why this crossing is a big concern for the Afghan and U.S. governments.
The visit lasted about a half hour before we quickly packed it up and took off for Herat. Quite the interesting day trip for sure. Unfortunately on the way back, a truck in our convoy hit a taxi, killing two. Including a young man on his way to his wedding in Iran. Another reminder of how fast life can change.

Monday September 13, 2004

The next day I was brought up to the ANA brigade HQ because the E.T.T.'s I was with wanted to make sure it was alright I was there and wanted to check with the lead command element, which now happens to be the 25th Infantry Division's 3/4 Cav. I'm not really sweating it because I am working through Task Force Phoenix and the ANA. Technically, I'm attached to the U.S. Army still, but I play the ANA card a lot, as I feel I'm entitled to.
The E.T.T.'s brought me up to the 25th's HQ, which is now located in the "Jihaddi House". This is no regular house. It's a nice size home sitting in the side of the mountain. No other house is higher. It's unclear whether Ismail Kahn owns this house, but it is clear that this house is where his Jihad against the Soviets began, so there is historical significance here.
Inside are murals of the jihad and old weapons in glass cases. Up the stairs, the hall wraps around leaving the middle open. 5-6 bedrooms branch off the hall. Nice furniture and some accessories. A little bare minus the 40 or so soldiers inside.
Not long ago Ismail Kahn held audience and meetings here. Now it is bristling with U.S. Army brass which is working overtime to coordinate a force of roughly 500 U.S. soldiers with the Afghan's and their U.S. trainers, which number over 2,500. I get a quick tour and meet the big guys. All seemed to go well, which was good. I was warned to expect some shit over the fact that I'm unescorted, but it never came. I was just in time for the evening B.U.B ( Battle Update Brief), but I wasn't invited to stay. Understandable. I've been in on many, but it depends on command and considering I just met these men, I expected no different.
Outside, the house has a spectacular view of Herat with barren moonscape mountains to the rear and the flanks. Just below (or so I thought), was two guesthouses of Kahn's. One was still being built, the other was a barracks for more men from 3/4 Cav. The house under construction had a huge mural of Kahn on the side, as well as one with Ahmad Shah Masoud. The workers told me the new plan was to make it a restaurant. Maybe Kahn will give up war and go into resorts, like some of his fellow warlords. Doubt it, but who knows.
After getting some shots, I decided to head back up the hill. On the way I had a heart attack, but eventually made it. This is where the wind became incredible. It was blowing hard to start with, but all of a sudden we weren't in Kansas anymore. After 25 minutes of abuse (I was waiting for some soldiers), a Spec Ops guy and I climbed into his truck to get away from it. This is the same Spec Ops guy I ran into in Bagram and Kandahar 3 or 4 months ago. This is when you realize how small this war really is.
Back at the E.T.T. barracks, I was given a cot on the enclosed front porch with a couple of the E.T.T.'s that put me up the previous night. The wind continued to rage, but I slept through it. Actually reminded me a lot of a multitude of times and places I've spent listening to Lake Huron as I grew up. Being from Michigan, I am very fortunate to have many memories of the Great Lakes, in particular Lake Huron. Than I woke up...
Actually this E.T.T. pad has qualities of a cabin "up north". In fact, several of the guys commented on its "hunting cabin" feel. It's just a single hall building with room of of it as you walk up the hall. At the end is the kitchen where the guys take turns making the meals and cleaning up. They live apart from the army and count on the local economy quite a bit. Their job is to advise the ANA and fight alongside when necessary. A Green Beret job in Vietnam, now one for the 76th Indiana Infantry.
Although the unit hails from Indiana, it has drawn members from 16 states. In this unit, I'm with soldiers from Indiana, Oregon, Alabama, Mass, New Hampshire, Maine, Ohio, and Illinois. I'm sure there's another state or two that I'll hear about later. Anyway... great crew. Fought some very hairy action earlier in the week and they've been shaking it off in a very professional manner. So I decide to ask to stay a few days and they give me the green light.

Sunday September 12th, 2004
Kabul

Sometimes it's tough to keep track of time here. Sunday becomes Thursday and Wednesday is actually Saturday. In fact, it's tough to even remember what month it is sometimes. This is one of those weeks when you lose track of time. Not sure why this week is like that, but it is.
What I do know for sure, is that on Monday morning I was finally able to make it to Herat. Unfortunately, a day late and a dollar short. On Sunday morning, Ahmet got an early morning call that the government was sponsoring a trip to Herat to to cover the installment of the new governor. Remarkably, the day before, President Karzai pulled the coup of the year by replacing the "Lion of Herat", Ismail Kahn. This didn't sit well with some folks and unrest began late Saturday afternoon that killed two protesters.
Knowing this, I sent Ahmet to Herat with plans of my own to follow him up the next day via the U.S. military. The idea is that Ahmet covers the Afghan speaking contingent, and I cover the english-speaking side. As Ahmet returned, I would be punching out, meaning we could overlap our coverage, ensuring we cover all angles.
The difficulty of working in Afghanistan is very similar to the difficulties endured by journalists is Vietnam. It is very difficult to get around the country, which means often times, the video that eventually gets out, can be days old. That is the challenge. Fortunately, my military contacts and working fluidly with Ahmet and the rest of the crew allows me us to do some of the best video coverage in the country.
As Sunday wore on, riots in Herat spun out of control. Roughly 1,000 protesters gathered at various points in Herat. The mob would eventually burn three U.N. buildings and cause a couple dozen injuries to U.S. and Afghan forces. The majority of those caused by the torrential flood of rocks being thrown by the crowd, but there were also some injuries due to a hand grenade as well.
The protesters, almost all under 25, had a reported 7 killed with another 50 injured or wounded. Intelligence sources tell me that Iranian special forces and Ismail Kahn's cronies were behind the trouble; paying off the young kids and handing out weapons to anyone interested in fighting the Afghan led forces. Too bad for those kids, I guess. Regardless, Ahmet was in Herat with Andrew North from the BBC, and they were getting great video. Unfortunately, much of that video had injured kids yelling they'd been shot by Americans.
Back in Kabul, Task Force Phoenix was getting ready to send reinforcements to the area and to exploit the fact the Kahn was thrown out of power. That would also be my ticket out to Herat, finally.

Monday September 13th, 2004 0600
Kabul

Captain Powell called the night before to advise that my plane wouldn't be coming as early as expected, which was a relief. I actually had until noon. That gave me time to pack correctly. Besides, we were expecting a tape from Herat via Airiana
at 1100. Ahmet managed to get a U.N. worker to take it out as the U.N. staff evacuated.
I sent Nadir and Recep to wait on the plane while I busted my butt getting a bunch of necessary work out of the way, including a note to Heidi and my fantasy football lineup. Afterall, I was offered Stephen Davis for Eli Manning. I really think my team has a chance this year!
Time began getting short and at 1145 I decided to get a taxi to Camp Phoenix. A call to Nadir lets me know he's still waiting, so I have no choice.
Once there I was met by Captain Powell who set me up with an element of the 76th Indiana Infantry that was preparing to move out as reinforcements. Very nice guys out of the Salem, Indiana armory. Having gone to school and lived in Indiana for several years, we had enough in common to get along well off the bat.
We convoyed through town to the ISAF section of Kabul International Airport where we loaded onto a C-130 and made the hour plus trip Herat.
At the airport, I split with the platoon I came with and headed up through the ANA camp to the "hotel" where the ETT's (Embedded Training Team) for 4/2 Kandak stayed. A "Kandak" is the Afghan equivalent of a battalion. 4th Kandak, 2nd Brigade.
Being American and dressing paramilitary, I never get challenged with the ANA, so I went straight to the hotel and looked up the new inhabitants. Last time I was here, some Guardsman from Vermont were just getting ready to head out, so I expected new faces, which I found.
I introduced myself, talked about my history and the documentary and was gladly given a bunk to sleep in and food. Very kind guys.
Off the top I had a good long conversation with a Captain Tigh who's one of those no nonsense guys from Pennsylvania that doesn't like the press much. Interestingly enough, we had a nice long talk and he filled me in on the events of the previous day.

Below is a compilation of some details I heard from several combatants and not necessarily from Capt. Tigh:

Turns out that small demonstrations turned big and violent after some of Kahn's men and suspected Iranian instigators urged and paid of a young group of men to go after the U.N. buildings in town to "protest" the removal of Ismail Kahn.
The riot would last for hours and become increasingly violent. Rocks would eventually turn into hand grenades and patience into bullets. The Afghan National Police is blamed for much of the shooting, but the ANA also did their fair share, although much more disciplined and generally as warning shots.
The Herat Provincial Reconstruction Team was also attacked, a battle that was primarily Neaderthal, with both sides throwing rocks at each other. Reservists from Texas (I think) carried the bulk of that battle. "Equal force" said one sergeant.
The PRT is right in downtown. I was actually shocked to see it there. I've seen many PRTs, but never on in the middle of the city. A relatively small walled compound with houses all around it. Some taller than the PRT's walls. I can only imagine what this rock fight looked like.
After the riot, many of the PRT's soldiers had bandages from being beaned. In fact I saw Colonel Hipwell with a bandage on his face and later would see the wound; took a rock to the jaw. I've heard that Purple Hearts are under consideration for many of the rock injuries. Not sure of I agree with that, but I wasn't there.
There was also several cases of coalition soldiers getting surrounded and some rather brave acts occurring to limit casualties.
In one instance, ANA and some ETT's were trapped in a building with no communication. Even cell phones were dead. Then all of a sudden, one of the Terps' cell phone rings, giving them a way out. A call to someone, who called someone got some helicopters to land on a the rooftops of small buildings to evacuate people.
One ETT told me that as he lay prone in the street, he watched one of his ANA soldiers sprinting down the road toward coalition lines, the dust of bullets hitting at his feet,
One of those same helicopters was almost hit by an RPG, an attack that would draw the only American fire that I could find during the entire riot. In all, approximately 20 conventional Americans and 100 ANA and ANP were involved in the contact. U.S Special Forces were also involved. I can't determine at all if they fired their weapons, but I do know they used non-lethal "flash-bang" grenades and smoke to disperse the crowd. Reports of tear gas by U.S. forces have no merit. Not only that, but I have never personally seen gas of any type employed or carried by coalition forces.
However, at the end of the day, the casualties were high: At least 5 Afghan civilians were killed and at least 54 Afghans injured or wounded. On the coalition side, more than a dozen ANA injured, either by rocks or shrapnel from a grenade. The serious injuries had one guy take some in the eye, another in the chest. Two Americans also got hit, but the injuries were relatively light.
Three U.N. buildings were looted and burned and dozens of vehicles were destroyed or seriously damaged. Only a dozen or so even made it out of town to the safety of the ANA base just south of the city, many with no windows One with a bullet hole and blood in it.
By Monday, Kahn was gone and so was the violence. No one knows where he went, but it's believed his family is in Iran. Kahn fled to Iran in 1997 after breaking out of a Taliban prisoner with help from a sympathetic guard. A break across the desert nearly ended when his vehicle hit a mine. For Kahn, a stroke of luck, escaping with just a broken leg. Just before his ouster, he had applied for 185 visas to Iran, so understand that his connection to Iran is strong.
Now, the Lion of Herat is on the lose again. Intelligence reports indicate Kahn was handing out weapons, many to Iranians that have been coming across the border. One figure I've heard is 1,500 men. His tanks are all in coalition hands awaiting DDR, but that doesn't mean this wily old man isn't up to something.

Later that I made my way the half mile down to the north end of the airport to where the Indiana guys got stationed. It was a place that looked like a mud brick castle, complete with a tower and all, In the bunker was a room like you see in the movies complete with a huge plexi glass map standing vertical against one wall.
Not quite like the movies. Again, everything is brown here. The glass on the windows is also long gone. Time and neglect has definitely taken its toll. The guys were claiming rooms and taking up shop. Actually a neat place overall.
After visiting, I walked back toward the ANA camp. By now the wind had really picked up and I was battling the dust. On my way I passed a "boneyard". This is a place that can be found around the country. All they are, are graveyards for an incredible amount of destroyed Soviet-era equipment. The best I've been in was Shindand,, but this one was good too. No less than 15 MiG-somethings in one phase of decay or another. There was also radar equipment, comm trucks, helicopters you name it. What made this boneyard so different though, was the amount of personal type items, all in great condition: Gas Masks, rubber suits, manual, ammunition and the.... a Soviet helmet. A little later I found an Afghan helmet still painted with it's insignia! Holy crap! Two helmets in great shape, including the interior and strap. Great finds. Made my day twice.
What else made my day is a little more personal. When I was growing up, I was a lucid dreamer about World War II. I always wanted to go to the Hurtgen Forest in Germany and climb on old tanks. I wanted to see landing craft rusting on the beach. I wanted to find German helmets (my favorite) under a pile of leaves. Just daydreams/ Now, I'm standing on the wing of an old warplane, all shot to hell, and surrounded by miles and miles of old war. I was actually standing in the place I always dreamt of standing. I just stood there on the wing of a MiG-21 a looked around me. All I could do was once again imagine, just like I did when I was a kid. Except this time it was real. The MiG-21 was just as well a JU-88 Stuka dive bomber, and I couldn't have been more elated.

September 11th can be a busy day here in Afghanistan. I sent Ahmet to cover President Karzai at a school at 0700 and the day was on. We had worked out the live coverage plan for the 9-11 ceremony in Kabul with no problems. Just meet there at 1400.
In the meantime, I wrote a story about Tarnak Farms, the former Al Qaida training facility outside of Kandahar. Last month I was able to convince the ANA to take me out there; kind of like a well guarded field trip. Anyway, I saved the video just for today and it eneded up selling to CNN. Of course good news. That means someone responsible has the video in their archives, which for historical purposes, is a big deal.
If you don't know, Tarnak Farms was Osama's laregst training facility. The U.S. blew the hell out of it, which makes for good pictures. We were able to crawl into the biggest piece of building left, which gave us a great vantage point. The compound itself is quite large, but was thoroughly impaired by U.S. bombs. I have some pictures that will eventually make it on the site (Kent!!). The're pretty interesting.
We made it to CFC-Afghanistan on time and got everything set with plenty of time to spare, so we asked to go to the PX. Oh yea baby!! I bought Chips Ahoy, Oreos, Tostito's with hot salsa and Sprite. Like heaven!! Real American junk food that's actually fresh!! Of course Ahmet had to be like my Mom and take forever to do his shopping, then bought the store. That put us dangerously close to some interviews I wanted to do live.
Then, we had major audio problems that were detected late because the audio check I asked for never got done. So here I have four soldiers serving that have 9-11 related life stories, expecting to be on live TV and we can't get mics to work.
Without getting into it, we scrapped out the interviews at the last second and was able to hit live on time.
The ceremony went fine and ended up being bought by ABC, but Recep and I had to get out of there and to the house for an evening live shot with Al Aribya. The first of three is at 1900, the last at midnight. Long freaking day.
One thing that came out of tonight was the true collision of eastern and western media. Just before the live shot, the Al Aribya producer and I got into a diagreement. Earlier in the day it was announced that western warlord, Ismael Kahn, had accepted a post in the government and was essentially replaced with a new govorner.
For those that follow the situation, they know this is a big deal. So Al Aribya is saying that Ismael Kahn was offered the job so he would drop out of running for president. He went on to imply that this is how the U.S. dominated politics play a part in Afghanistan.
The problem is two fold: First, Ismael Kahn is not, and has not, been a candidate for the president. Second, he is being offered a job versus getting himself and his followers killed by U.S. bombers tired of waiting for him to get with the plan.
What's the point of this ramble? No real big point, but a succession of many smaller points, all looking at the fact that journalists can see anything in a theory that they want to, even if the truth needs to be streched a little. Is hatred and disslike that blinding? One thing's for sure: For most Middle Eastern journalists I know, everything that goes wrong in the world has roots that strech all the way back to America, always.

Immediately, I knew a bomb or something went off. I thought about it a fraction of a second, then yelled for Qurbon. Just then, Qurbon yells in his 20% english, "David... look!" Toward the British embassy you could see a plume of smoke.
Within maybe a minute I was pulling on my sandles and starting the car at the same time. Qurbon opened the gate and I was off.
I have to admit that I absolutely love spot news, whether local or international, it is such a great part of the job. The adrenaline involved in getting the pictures in a strenuous situation is very satisfying. Obviously, spot news in Kabul is a lot different. Here there's lots of explosives and automatic weapons. So far, very few peacekeepers are killed - far, far fewer than N.Y. city cops, but it;s still a dangerous place to be. However, Kabul is safe enough, even now, that a few simple precautions here and there makes life completely safe. To be honest, I really don't feel threatened here at all.
I wasn't thinking about that at this point. As I take of down the road, "BooM!" Another explosion. With camera on the front seat, I head off the nearly empty streets toward the Kabul Compound (main US base in downtown Kabul).
Here, U.S. hummers have the right away ALL the time which led me to hit the breaks to allow turning Hummers to cut me off. The alternative was a t-bone.
Many people here actually dislike the Americans for certain, petty things. Th Afghans get mad at the U.S. because they do drive so aggressively in public. They also don't like the "cowboy" image many of the Spec. Ops and DynCorp guys portray here: Sunglasses, goatees, tan pants with vests filled with ammunition. Weapon always at the ready. It is definitely seen as arrogant. They also get mad when the U.S. blocks a street. I've heard these things in the past. The last time I questioned the guy, There really was no logical reason except Americans messed up traffic one day. At least there's a ton more patience than in Iraq.

Meanwhile, back at the rocket attack....

I drive around but can't find anything. In fact, no one, not even the Americans looked as though they were real alarmed. I guess I must be in the wrong place.
I decide to race home and when I get there, Ahmet's there. So we take off. While asking a traffic cop for directions: BOOM!! A third rocket, this one behind us. We take off in that direction and quickly get to the scene because of Ahmet's language abilities.
We both have cameras and start shooting. I shoot the periphery, and Ahmet goes native to get the more aggressive shots. Within five minutes, I have all the initial video I need. I take the car and meet with Nadir for a feed. Ahmet follows up 45 minutes later with more video, interview and information. Perfect execution.
Fortunately, no one was killed, which makes good spot news better.

All of this happened as I'm trying to finish a crapload of work. By now it's midnight, and I have a convoy to catch to Bagram for another attempt at Shindand. In fact, a friend, Major Mike Myers whose the PAO in Kandahar, is going as well. He's a good guy and I figure that I may finally get there with him by my side.
The trip to Bagram was the same and we made it in without a hitch. At Public Affairs, they weren't expecting us, so they had a couple small hoops to jump through. Turns out for naught as we couldn't get on the plane because of an admin error. What next?
Only option is to call Ahmet for a ride back and go back to planning the live 9-11 coverage from Kabul. Maybe next week I'll try one more time.

Clearly, getting to Shindand has become a royal pain in the ass and now an obsession. Why? Couple reasons: I need to find my body armor. I have learned that an Afghan interpreter found my vest on the tarmac at Shindand and has since pressed it into service. My goal will be to find this terp and rescue my jacket so I don't get charged or something by my boss. Second, I have at least three good stories I can get out of the trip and I think it's worth it to go.
The downfall is that we have live 9-11 coverage from Kabul during the American morning TV programs Saturday (mind you, it will be available, but I don't have a list of clients yet). The guys normally handle it with three, so I've assigned four with one at the house for spot news or feeds.
So why does this matter? Because I've been trying to get to Shindand for more than 10 days. I've had planes break, flights cancelled, been recalled by the boss literally walking in the gate at Bagram and then the latest string of oddities since...

Once again I set up with Captain Ben Powell to come up to Kabul and try to wait out a flight. Flights here are sporadic at best and often unannounced. The goal is to hop on a resupply flight.
Like usual, Ahmet almost kills me taking me the 50 or so kilometers to Bagram, down fairly good road that is plenty safe. The whole way, all I can think is "Burger King". That's right, Bagram is home to Afghanistan's first Burger King and I'm ready to have it my way. Up at the ggate, Sgtt. Holt picks me up and takes me to the hoochh where I unload my gear before heading up the road to the Burger King.
At the PX, soldiers and Marines, mostly American, but Germans, French, Poles and a spattering of others are around. Many enjoying some BK... uuummmm..... "I'll take a Royal with cheese." Now for some reason I thought this was some huge burger, fit and ready for consumption. Turns out it's chicken. No problem. Had 'em, like 'em. So I ate it.
Now imagine my suprise, after being sick six times my first two months and not getting sick in the past three, that I would wake up with the double-barrrel ballistic sickness. All I can say is that I don't have to write anymore to remember this night.

The next day I'm told the flight this morning was full and the one the next morning is a special reserve with llittle chance of getting on. That, to their knowledge, was the last scheduled flight for a while. Good news: There's one scheduled for the mornning back in Kabul. That means another drive for Ahmet for nothing. This would make three and several to KIA (Kabul International Airport)

BoooOOOMM! We are under a rocket attack. At least three explosions, so gotta roll!

I really hate when a few days turn into a week. Things were going so well until that damn bomb went off. The day after, we filed a follow up and I was on my way to Bagram. The plan: Get to Shindand and do some patrolling with the Afghan National Army, get plenty of b-roll for the documentary and work on a follow up to the cease fire that has all the indications will hold. Nice jaunt of no more than six days, putting me one day closer to Amsterdam (Heidi and I are finally going to have a real honeymoon. She's meeting me in Amsterdam for a trip through some of Europe... WoooHoo!).
When I get to the gate, the PAO has been notified and is on his way to pick me up when Istanbul calls and tells me they don't want me leaving Kabul in case there are no explosions. Now this is a place where I know I've grown. I juust drove 60km through the Afghan countryside, made a billion plans when out of the blue: Nope, can't go. A few years back that would burn me up so bad I could hardly think. Nowadays, "Here's my not to but if you say so, it will be!"
So for the past week I've been hanging around Kabul waiting for some spot news. The press conferences have been boring and there's just a real lull over the town. Persoanlly, I don't venture out anymore unless I have to. I actually feel safer in the field chasing Taliban than I do walking around Kabul right now. Everyone knows something is about to happen and everyone is nervous.
Well sourced rumours say there are at least 4 bombs somewhere in the city that are just waiting to be planted. No one from the coalition, to the UN, to me believes the elections will be problem free. Kind of just holding our breath in the meantime.
Personally I'll keep running around the country until the third week of September when I'll head back to the capital to ride out the elections. With transportation so poor here it makes no sense to do election day coverage in a place that takes 3 days to get out of.


***Please check out tthe blog from www.battlefieldtourist.com There's all sorts of pictures and other writtings about the war in Afghanistan.

Sunday, August 28, 2004 1800
Kabul

The explosion was at least a few klicks to the north and I needed to move about a klick and a half to get home. Mind you, I have an olive shirt on with tan, military pants that are bloused. Plus, I have U.S. desert-style combat boots on, a flak jacket and am loaded down with a backpack and fanny pack. The backpack is fall hunter's style camoflauge. I start to sweat. Whether it was fact or not (probably was), I felt like I was shrinking under the heavy gazes.... TAXI!
It didn't take too long to get a taxi, which zipped me up the street in no time. Cab driver tried to gouge me double the normal fare, which ended as I handed him a 50 Afghani and say, "Do you know how long I've lived here?".
At the house the gate was wide open and Abdullah and Qubon were there. Abdullah, in a very unexcited tone told me the guys were at an explosion. He took me out front, showed me the smoke and went back inside to whatever he was doing.
"Get Ahmet on the phone." Ten minutes later, "He says they're on their way." I wanted them to leave a guy at the scene, but since I didn't get the call, that didn't happen. Turned out that would have been impossible anyway, based on the events that came to be. At this time I still had no update on what was going on. Of course the guys think I'm in Herat. Oopps.
The guys get back and start feeding in the first set of pictures and scripts. I start working on a script of my own and continue monitoring the wires and working the guys to get their contacts' insight. Before long we hear a rumour of another explosion in central downtown (which is not realy much of a downtown, but it is usually packed with people.) Ahmed decides Abdullah and I should respond. I tell him thanks, but he and Abdullah would respond, while I continued working the original bomb. About five minutes later, the second bomb turned out to be a false lead. Soon after, we're on our way toward the original scene and night has fallen.
On the way FOX calls and needs some live phoners... in seven minutes! Holy crap! "No problem... I'm still in the car, though." "No, I haven't been to the scene, but will be shortly... I've seen the tapes??"
We zip down the side road near the cinema that takes us straight to where my former-internet cafe was. I had heard it was in this area and was once again very happy we finally had the internet.
We let out right at the cafe and there's German APC's blocking the road. I immediately head toward the main intersection checking it out as fast as I can. Intersections in Afghanistan tend to be these round-a-bout type of things. There's monument in the middle and four lanes of traffic flow into this circle around the monument, then flow out when they get to their desired street. It's truly organised chaos with no signals or rules.
Today, the round-a-bout at this particular intersection was filled with mostly German ISAF troops in armored personnel carriers, keeping everyone on the far side of the road, a group primarily made up of journalists. From where we stood, glass in all the surrounding buildings had shattered, the street was lined with it. I look around for Abdullah and there he is enjoying the calamity, camera in bag. "Start shooting, Abdullah." "Huh?... Oh!" So he pulls out his camera and starts shooting like a tourist. 10 seconds later, an APC T-bones a car trying to drive fast through the maze of vehicles. It's literally 10 meters to Abdullah's right. Not even the sound of the impact could shake his focus from whatever it was he was shooting (like a tourist).
Our preliminary report is that 4 Americans and 3 Afghans are dead. We also hear that the bomb rocked a building or house that is used by the private U.S. security firm, DynCorp. FOX is calling and I'm trying to establish a decent signal, which is difficult. That, and the noise, and things were not getting off to a good start. Three times as I'm trying to do this phoner, I get chased away by ISAF troops, twice by APC's. I wasn't that they were literally chasing me, just for some reason, wherever I wanted to stand, an APC or jeep wanted to drive. Needless to say, the call didn't seem to ge well, which obviously was a bummer.
Still dressed up like a CIA agent, I decide to take advantage of it and successfully made it to within 40 meters of the site. At one point while in the perimeter I sat on a flower planter to write notes. A German on top his APC yelled something down to me, which I didn't hear, so I used the always safe, "Bitte?" He doesn't say anything, so I go back to writing. That's whne he shinned his light on me. So I got up and walked up to his APC and said the very safe, "Was ist los?? Meaning, "What's the matter?" "Oh nothing..." he says. "I was just looking at your boots." As if that confirmed my identity. It did to him.
A few minutes later, Ahmed starts up the walk and we hook back up. We walk through the lines as if we're supposed to be there and no one bothers us. At the scene, we split up, both collecting as much information as we can. At this point Ahmed's camera is still slung behind his back. It's kind of like being in a minefield;
you never know when you're going to take your last step.
We watch the mayhem for a bit. Finally, Ahmed starts shooting some discreet video. Crowded into this neighborhood are new a few hundred police, ISAF and U.S. troops plus a platoon of DynCorp guys. It turns out the bomb went off in front of their office, killing six, icluding three Americans. The office that was destroyed was where DynCorp helped the German Army in training the Afghan National Police.
After about an hour, another German soldier approached and told us we had to leave, "It's very dangerous here..." Really? Not as dangerous as it is outside the security perimeter I just got thrown out of. We decide we have enough pictures and info to file a follow up, so we cut our profit and roll. Besides, we have clients needing live services.
As I write and edit, the rest of the crew is working with German, Russian and Iranian clients. Most are feeds, but we also do a live shot from the roof. I complete my stories and feed, then wait for my last FOX phoner, which is scheduled two hours later. After that, it's bed time. Time is 1:00 AM.

Posted by: Dave / 2:04 AM